WT Forums

Hey guys, I just started a thread over on AF Together We Served, conserning weapons maintenance of carry guns. As a retired CATM Instructor I realize that more often than not, the weapon that people most rely on is usually the one most abused and least maintained. At any rate, I was thinking that if there is an intrest here, I could copy the posts here as well. I'd also like to let you all know that if any of you have weapons related questions, especially maintenance realated, I'm just a post away, or PM or email.

_________________
Slow is Fast, Fast is Slow
Violence may not be the best option, but it IS an option

I would be.

_________________
\"Those who hammer their guns into plows
will plow for those who do not.\"
- Thomas Jefferson

I've read a few threads here and on other sites, by people who have carry guns and I'm always conserned if they are aware of the unique maintenance issues that can arrise from always having a gun with you and having it loading and ready to go at all times.

As a retired CATM Instructor, I've been trained to maintain weapons both used regularly as well as those used just for training and war. As such, I've also seen first hand, the problems that can arrise when they are not properly maintained.

I have a few guns I consider \"Ready Guns\", these are guns that I have Ready for use, but I don't carry on a regular basis. These guns I keep unloaded, Rack Safe, and locked away. However, I keep magazines for these weapons loaded and ready for use, so all I have to do is go to the safe, pull the gun, a couple of mags and perform a quick load and I'm ready for what ever.

I also have 2 guns I consider \"Carry Guns\", these are almost always loaded and are kept close at hand, but rarely at the same time. I prefer to have 2 so that I can alternate them. Giving them down time is just as important as giving troops down time.

With any carry gun, you are up against 2 primary enemies, on a maintenance standpoint. One is dirt/dust/oil, and all the rest of the daily grunge we clean off every time we take a shower or even wash our hands. The other is Spring Strain.

As to the first problem, you should remember that just as you get dirty, so does your weapon if it's on you. If I'm working in my wood shop, and end up covered in sawdust, and I have my weapon on, then my weapon is also covered in saw dust. Granted, it may be in a holster, but its' still open at the top. If you have a carry gun, you need to clean it at least once a month. More often if you are in a dirty, dusty, or damp environment. If it's a windy day, and there's lots of dirt blowing, and you can feel it on your skin, you'll want to be cleaning your weapon that night.

Places to look for dust and dirt:
The primary places are usually going to be just inside the muzzle, around the hammer and trigger, slide rails on auto's. Blowing off the dust really dosen't help much unless you have an air comprssor. You really need to field strip, and clean it. Detail brushes or old tooth brushes can really help get the dust and grit out of nooks and crannies. Run a few patches down the bore and wipe down the whole piece. Dont forget about the Magazine well. There is almost always dust in there and sand can get there pretty often as well. Get a build up of grit in there, and the empty magazine won't puch out. You'll have to take the time to manually strip it out of the well. You'll also need to clean well around the extractor and the face of the slide. If these get gummed up you'll be looking at some searious malfunctions like a failure to fire or a failure to extract or eject. Again, a good detail brush or tooth brush works great here. Pipe cleaners are another great tool in this area. If you can find old dental picks, ask your dentist if they have some old ones you can have. These work fantastic for getting into nooks and crannies where nothing else will reach.

If you carry a Wheel Gun, Revolver, pay close attention to the underside of the extractor. Sand and dirt just seem to migrate there, and it can build up to the point that the cylinder won't close. Additionally, you'll have dust and dirt inside all of the chambers and in the breech end of the barrel. Anytime you clean your revolver, take a few moments to ensure that ALL of the screws are good and tight. WIth most S&W's you'll have 2 screws on the top strap over the cylinder. The forward one holds on the rear sight, and the rear one is the elevation adjustment. The front one is the one to watch. I've seen these fall off before, and within a minute in a gun fight, you'll loose the entire rear sight. Next is the Thumb piece screw. This holds your thumb piece on. Without the thumb piece, you'll find it pretty tough to open the cylinder for reloading. On the right hand side, you'll see 3 screws, (the rear most is found under the grips). The front screw holds on both the side plate and the yolk. Without this screw, your cylinder can fall off when opened. The middle screw holds on the side plate as well as the rear most screw. The stock screw is the one that holds the Grips (Stocks) onto the weapon. You don't want them coming loose. The last screw is the Strain Screw. This screw applies the power to the main spring that pulls the hammer down when you shoot. THIS IS NOT TO BE USED TO ADJUST THE TRIGGER PULL!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If this screw is not fully tightened it takes power away from the hammer. Take away too much power and you have a nice paper weight, but not a functioning gun. In that case, you might as well have a rock in your hand. The last thing you need to check from time to time, is the extractor rod. That's the rod you push to remove spent shells from the chambers. This piece has a left hand thread on it, and if it comes loose, the movement of the cylinder rotating can unscrew it to the point that it jams the cylinder between the frame and the barrel lug that the rod clips into when closed. Check this rod from time to time to make sure it stays tight. Just remeber, it's a left hand thread so Left is Tight, and Right is Loose.

Finally, with any gun that is carried in the elements, you'll find that dust and dirt can get into the inner working of the action. Frome time to time it will be important to DETAIL STRIP the weapon to fully clean it. If you don't know how to do this, you can take it to a Gun Smith, or if you're cheap like me, buy a book on HOW TO detail strip and re-assemble your weapon, and learn how to do it your self. I try to do this at least once a year with my carry guns, and more if I've been in some harsh elements.

A dirty gun will lead to all kinds of problems, Failure to feed, Failure to Fire, Failure to Extract and Eject.

Stay tuned for our next installment and as I always told my CATM Classes, if you have a question, please feel free to ask.
Frank.Howell.Contractor@usap.gov

_________________
Slow is Fast, Fast is Slow
Violence may not be the best option, but it IS an option

Another vital point to be made conserning the health of your carry gun is the health of your magazines, and their biggest enemy is spring strain. By keeping a magazine fully loaded all the time, the follower spring is in constant compression. Over a period of time, it will loose it's ability to fully perform. This can and does lead to failure to feed, failure to lock the slide back on the last round and failure for the empty magazine to fully eject from the magazine well.

I've done a LOT of shooting over the years, and one of the most important lessons I've learned is that \"A chain is only as strong as it's weakest link.\" You can have the best handgun made by man, with the best sights and even GPS guided bullets, but if you are packing bad or worn out magazines, you'll be doing nothing but fighting jams.

Here's the cure:
1. Maintain double the amount of carry magazines that you'll need or carry.

2. Rotate them about once a month. If you regularly clean your weapon once a month, it'd be a good time to unload your carry magazines and reload the ammo into your second set. Then next month, go back to the first set.

3. Clean the magazines once you've emptied them. This can be done quickly by just wiping them down with an oiled rag. Also be sure to look inside the mag through the witness holes to see if it's dirty inside. Grit dirt and sand inside a magazine can also cause feeding problems. You may need to disassemble your mag to clean the inside.
For a fixed base magazine, like the ones used for 1911 .45's, you'll need to compress the magazine follower about half way down, and stick a pin, small screw, dental pick or tooth pick through one of the witness holes to hold the spring compressed. Then pull the follower out through the top, it'll take some wiggling around to get it out. Then with your hand over the end of the magazine, or with it pointing in a safe direction like into a rag, pull the pin that is holding the spring, then remove the spring.
For most double stack magazines, like the Berretta's, the magazines base plate can be slid from the mag body. These usually have a clip or button that needs to be depressed before the base plate will slide off. Once the base is off, the spring and follower will come out the bottom, sometimes with a great deal of force so be ready for it.
Other magazines or problems with the above mentioned, check your owners manual. There are all kinds of magazines out there, and some may have their own little tricks to get them open.
Re-assembly should be straight forward. Just put it back together the way it came apart.
4. Clean the inside when needed. Just wipe the spring down with a rag, and wipe out the inside of the magazine. Go easy on oil with the mags as oil tends to attact dust and dirt. A very light film should be all you need here.

5. Inspect the magazine for damage, i.e. dents or worn lips. A dent can prevent the magazine follower from moving freely within the mag. The lips of the mag are the curled over top edges that hold the ammo in the magazine. Worn or dented lips can cause feeding problems and in extreme cases even prevent the slide from moving freely. If you find dents or have worn mag lips, toss that puppy and buy a new one.

It also helps to test your magazines when empty. Just insert an empty magazine, then pull the slide back sharply to see if it locks open. Then button out the empty mag to see if it punches all the way out when empty. If it fails either of these tests, you may need to either replace or stretch the follower spring.

NOTE: Pistols like the Browning High Power that have an internal safety that prevents the weapon from firing without a magazine inserted, will most often fail the mag ejection test. I know the High Power I once owned had an internal spring loaded plunger that would press against the front of the mag, and when I hit the mag catch button, the mag would only drop down about 1/16\" and I'd have to strip it out manually. Not much of a safety if you ask me, but then the folks from Browning didn't ask me.

Hope this helps and if you have further questions pleas feel free to post them here or shoot me an email.

_________________
Slow is Fast, Fast is Slow
Violence may not be the best option, but it IS an option

Good stuff, Frank. Thanks.

_________________
\"Those who hammer their guns into plows
will plow for those who do not.\"
- Thomas Jefferson

In most cases, if you are carrying a gun, it's going to be in some form of a holster. A holster both keeps the gun at the ready, safely, and protects the gun at the same time. There are thousands of holsters on the market, and all have different features both good and not so good, depending on your own personal feelings. So, today, I want to discuss some of the pros and cons of some of these features and a little about holster care.

Material
Weather your holster is made from leather, nylon, plastic, or even unobtainium, they are all basicly designed to safely hold and protect your weapon. I've owned lots of holsters over the years and almost all of the materials used manage to do a decent job of protecting the weapon.

Leather - A great material for holsters as they can be form fitted to a particular weapon, and hold that weapon securely until you need it. They look good too. On the down side though, they can retain moisture and cause corrosion of the weapon in humid environments. If you carry in a leather holster, make sure you remove the weapon at night and keep it well oiled, especially if you live in a humid climate. The coasts and river valleys of the mid-west will be more prone to this than say the high planes of Colorado where I live or the deserts of Arizona and New Mexico.

Nylon - was initally advertised as causing less holster wear, (the wearing off of the blueing or finish at prime friction points in the holster), as well as being able to dry faster if they get wet, and being able to \"breath\" so in humid climates they don't tend to cause rust as badly. These fabric holsters do a great job of protecting the weapon even in extended storage situations. On the down side, the fit of the weapon is not nearly as tight as you'll find with a leather holster. The fabric can give, stretch and flex to the point that weapon retension can become an issue. Most of these holsters I've seen have snap down straps with a velcro attachment that allow you to retighten them from time to time.

Plastic - These are a little more new on the scene, and I'll be the first to admit, that I don't have a lot of first hand knowledge on them. I know that they do a great job of holding the weapon securely and protecting it when it's on your hip, but I don't know how it holds up over time, nor how it deals with moisture. I have known some folks who have them and swear by them, as well as some who hate them with a passion. My advice if you're considering one, look them up on the web, talk to people who own them and in general, do your home work. Hopefully after reading this, you'll at least be aware of some of the issues to be considered and you'll better be able to ask the right questions.

Features:
There's a raft of different features out there and there is really no perfect holster that will be all things to all people for all situations. Here, I just want to discuss some of the major pros and cons of the more notible features.

Full vs Partial - This refers to the amount of coverage a holster gives to a weapon. A full holster will cover and enclose the weapon from muzzle to about an inch shy of the hammer. These provide great protection for the weapon. On the down side, though, they are harder to clean and take up the same amount of space on your hip regardless of weather the weapon is in it or not. A partial holster usually just wraps around the mid point of the weapon just around the trigger guard and leaves a good deal of the muzzle end exposed. These are usually a little less combersome when empty. Both can be easy to draw from and secure the weapon well, but with the muzzle end of the weapon exposed, it leaves it more exposed to damage.

Flap vs Strap - A flap holster is great for dirty environments. They keep dust and dirt out of the holster and fully protects the entire weapon from impact or scratches. The down side, they are slow and combersome to draw from. Retention straps tend to be much faster to draw from, but don't protect the weapon as much. As with most things in life, it's all a trade off.

Open vs Closed - Full holsters can be either open or closed at the muzzle end. Which is better is strictly up to the you. Open ended holsters don't keep foreign matter from the muzzle as a closed end will. However, a closed end holster does not let foreign matter that has dropped into the top get out through the bottom. They tend to collect dust and dirt in the bottom and dirty up the muzzle as soon as you holster it. I've carried both and personaly prefer an open ended holster, due to the ease of cleaning them.

Loops vs Clips - This has to do with how a holster is attached to a waist band. I've tried both and much prefer belt loops. Yes, they have to be threaded onto the belt, but you don't have to worry about the entire holster coming out when you draw your weapon. Again though, this is a personal sentiment. If clips work for you, by all means feel free.

Carry Options: Lots of ways to carry a weapon. Open or concealed, you want to make sure that the weapon is in a place where it can be protected from impact. The old westerns showed the pistols low on the hip and hanging out to the side. I guess if you're riding the range all day and not climbing in and out of cars/trucks, that might be a good enough rig. For the rest of use though, we really need to keep the weapon close the body so it doesn't impact door jambs and get hung up on anything we might brush against.

Hip - Most common and keeps the weapon protected by the arms and still easy to access.

Shoulder - Very well protected, but a little slower to draw and stowe.
Inside the waist band - High marks for protection, but can be a little uncomfortable.

Ankle - Never really figured out how to draw and shoot with my feet. Seriously though, these are specialty holsters that have their place. I personally have never had a use for them.

F.A.G. Bag - BTW F.A.G. has nothing to do with sexual preferances, it stands for Fast Action Gun. These are basicly fanny packs with velcro closure pockets designed to hold handguns. They are fast to draw from and do a good job of protecting and hiding a gun.

Regardless what type of holster you use, there are some maintenance issues that need to be addressed with them to help keep your weapon in tip top shape.

Cleaning - Just as you wash your clothes, you need to clean your holsters from time to time. They are subject to the same dirt, sand, grit and grime that your weapon is, Sand that gets on the inside of a holster can scratch the finish on a weapon as well as migrate into the workings of your weapon. After a long hike through the woods, climbing over rocks and through shrubs and dirt and grunge, you wouldn't take a shower and then dress in the same clothes again. So if your gun is really dirty and grimey, you may want to clean the holster before putting the gun back in. This can usually be done by wipeing the holster, both inside and out with a damp or lightly oiled rag. Use a damp rag with a Nylon fabric or plastic holster and allow to dry before reinserting your gun. Use a lightly oiled rag with Leather. If it has a closed bottom, on occation you might need to blow out the bottom with a compressor, or suck it out with a vacuume if you don't have a compressor.

Inspection - Every thing wears out eventually. Check your holsters over for damaged snaps, velcro that doesn't stick well or is full of dog hair and dirt, worn straps. Repair, clean, or replace as needed.

Adjustments - Many holsters, especially the Nylon and plastic ones, have adjustments in straps, and friction points for weapon retension. From time to time you need to check the adjustments of these features and make sure that the weapon is secure in the holster. The last thing in the world you need is to get into a tussle and find that your weapon is on the ground 10 feet away.

Finally let me just add that magazine pouches and speed loader pouches will reqire the same kind of care as the holster, and for the same reasons.

_________________
Slow is Fast, Fast is Slow
Violence may not be the best option, but it IS an option

Speaking of carrying...

I applied for my WA CPL today. As I've never owned a handgun, I'm wondering what your guys would recommend as far as a carry piece? My younger brother lives with me and he bought a very nice XD-9 just before he got his CPL. It shoots very nicely, and the price is right. I want it to be something my wife can handle when I'm gone on \"deployments\" as well. I've held the Glock 19 & 23 and they seemed a little bulky in my hand. The XD-9 felt good, and I'm sure I can add to it (laser/night sights, etc).

Suggestions? Thoughts?

I'm also trying to be reasonable price wise. So no bad ass 1911's for me... yet.

_________________
3 Branches down... 2 to go!
Put on your tinfoil hats, the black choppers are coming, and I'm calling them in.
Former DCC OA-10A T/N 80-278

you're on the right track. fondle- I mean handle- as many different makes, calibers as you can. Find the one(s) that feel good and help with na natural point of aim when you bring them up from ready. Then find a range you can rent them from (or friends/family) to find out what caliber you can effectively (i.e., hits on target) shoot. One of the more fun redearch projects you'll ever do! Good luck.

Personally the SIG line fits me well and I have both a 9mm and a .45 I enjoy.

_________________
\"Those who hammer their guns into plows
will plow for those who do not.\"
- Thomas Jefferson

The place where my brother got his XD-9 has a range in the store. Right our of the box, he was shooting center mass with tight groupings.

I was thinking about a .40 or sticking with the 9mm since ammo is cheaper right now. Also, does anyone know some good places to get ammo cheap? I plan on throwing a few hundred rounds downrange before I carry daily.

_________________
3 Branches down... 2 to go!
Put on your tinfoil hats, the black choppers are coming, and I'm calling them in.
Former DCC OA-10A T/N 80-278

I couldn't speak as to where to buy ammo in your AO as I don't know where you live.

I can speak to your weapon choice. If this is going to be a weapon for both you and your wife, you'd be best served to have her involved with testing as well. I know that my wife absolutely hates automatics. When they cycle it just scares the hell out of her and no amount of rational explaination does any good to change her attitude. So for her, it's a .357 mag. I love the .357 because you can tailor the gun to your needs with different ammo. .38 spl for range time. .38 +P for a little extra hitting power without running the risk of blowing through brick walls, and magnum loads for KTALGSTO! (Kill Them All Let God Sort Them Out).

If both of you prefer an automatic, try several. Chances are, she has smaller hands than you, so keep that in mind. I found that Browning High Powers have a grip that seems perfectly suited to most with smaller hands, however, they run between $700 to $1000. I had one once and have to admit they are great guns, but a bit pricy.

You might also look at Berrettas, Taurus, and Rugers. They all make exceptional semi autos and tend to run cheaper than some of the bigger brand names. I resently fired a Ruger P-90 that a friend of mine owns, and have to admit that it's a real tack driver. The only part I hate is that to dissassemble the slide from the frame you have to hold the slide to the rear while sticking your finger into the ejection port to flip a small internal lever. DON'T LET THE SLIDE SLIP! Other than that, it's a great pistol.

If you would really like a 1911, take a look at the Rock Island Armory's 1911. I bought one NIB a couple of years ago, for only $375. It's the one I resently added bigger and better sights to. If you want a 1911 and you're on a tight budget, it'd be the one to go with. Shoots well, right out of the box but the sights are too small for my old eyes. Also note that these are full sized Mil Spec 1911s and not the most concealable weapons made.

You might also take a look at some of the smaller light weight 9mm and .380 auto's. These are very concealable, and with the right ammo, can still pack an acceptable punch.

Taurus 609
Kel-Tec P3AT
AMT .380 Backup

I personally wouldn't want to hang my safety on anthing smaller than a .380 or 9mm Kurts. I just don't think that .32, .25, or .22's pack enough punch to do much more than piss somebody off.

Regardless what gun you go with, go with good quality ammo for carry and defence purposes. My personal favorite is Remington Golden Saber. These are a great hollow point that really expand well. I've found them in .45, .38+P, 9mm, .40, and most other calibers. I've not seen them in anything smaller than 9mm though. Some other great performing rounds are Winchester Silver Tips, Federal Hydroshock, and Speer Gold Dot. Hydroshock's are great for home defence, a little lighter loaded than most others and expand so well that they expend all their energy within the first few inches of penitration. They are less likely to punch through a wall and hit someone on the other side. Vitally important if you have kids in the house.

Finally, training. No doubt you'll have to take some training for your carry permit. Be sure to sign your wife up for it too. Proper training is VITAL for your safety and security. You both need to know not only how to shoot, but when to shoot and even more importantly, when NOT to shoot. Lean what the laws are in your AO and your rights under the law to protect yourself, others and your property. These laws vary and can turn around and bite you right square in the ass if you don't know them.

In summary, keep your mind open to all kinds of guns and try as many as possible. Get your wife involved in the process and keep her involved. Get the right training. And above all else, remember this. If you have a question, ASK. Weather it be in your training, or here on the WT or even if you want to email me with your question, just ask, because THE ONLY STUPID QUESTION IS THE ONE YOU DON'T ASK!

Best of luck and I'm here for you if you need anything.

Frank.Howell.Contractor@usap.gov

_________________
Slow is Fast, Fast is Slow
Violence may not be the best option, but it IS an option